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General rules for surface cleaning

  • Always wipe in the direction of the finish, not transversely.
    Work in overlapping strokes from top to bottom.
  • Do not use scouring pads or hard objects to remove stubborn dirt.
  • Do not use chlorinated cleaners, bleach or strong acids (for example, limescale remover).
  • Rinse detergent with plenty of fresh water. Wipe dry if possible.
  • Always use fresh water from the tap or the water pipes for cleaning.
    In no case should water from swimming pools or used water from collecting pots be used.
surface treatment

Common causes of stains or discolorations on stainless steel are listed below.

1. When transporting / unloading:

When unloading, the driver of the shipper takes the parts from the box and pulls it over the unprotected sill which consists of St37 (normal steel). During this procedure - even at light pressures - normal steel is rendered on the firmer surface of the stainless steel.

During storage in a humid environment (for example, in the open air), any corrosion is merely this abraded material. This problem occurs naturally when conveying or hoisting means made of normal steel bump or make contact with the stainless steel surface. For example, when the stainless steel parts are hooked onto a steel crane chain without the use of a protective layer between the chains and the stainless steel parts. At the points of contact brown abrasion spots form on the stainless steel parts as a result of the involvement of moisture.

2. During interim storage:

The unprotected stainless steel parts should not be stored directly next to each other, or even worse, on top of each other with normal steel parts. Direct contact causes the aforementioned corrosion of abraded material on the stainless steel.

When stored side by side in the open air where wind and rain act, a so-called "rust bloom" settles on the stainless steel parts and cannot be removed by simple wiping. If stainless steel and normal steel are stored in direct proximity then please use a tarpaulin as protective separation.

During storage it is also necessary to ensure, that no work on normal steel parts is carried out in direct proximity. For example, the cutting of normal steel profiles with an angle grinder (during which the glowing sparks can fly a long way) is one of the most frequent causes of subsequent staining on the stainless steel parts. A particular problem of this type of contamination is, that steel particles are burnt into the surface of the stainless steel.

3. During assembly

"The support angles must remain in place until the mortar is fully set." These are our mounting instructions for clinker support. In no case should the support include the use of a normal steel girder! There is here, of course, normal steel abrasion to be expected which spoils the optical impression particularly on visible supports such as windows. Always use a wooden beam which has not been impregnated or in contact with steel for support purposes.

Please pay attention during processing operations, that no steel or steel appliance splatter on the stainless steel surface occurs in order to prevent abrasion or penetration of the stainless steel parts. Even a light hammer blow with a hammer or pincer grip made of tool steel is enough to cause abrasion. Therefore, use chrome at least or, even better,  tools that are not made of steel.

4. In subsequent work on the façade

The acid washing of a brick wall - common in many places with dilute hydrochloric acid or a hydrochloric acidic agent - is very problematic for stainless steel. Hydrochloric acid is one of the most aggressive chemicals for all metallic materials.

Therefore, this agent should not  be used in areas of the façade where it could come into direct contact with stainless steel, or where it can fly by wind or land on the stainless steel as spray! If a full-surface acidification of the façade is absolutely necessary, all stainless steel parts should be protected with a sheet beforehand! If steel parts still come into contact with the acidifying agent, they must be cleaned immediately and  thoroughly with clean water and a sponge.

Do not leave cleaning until later giving the acid time to react on the stainless steel parts! Should any acid residues be left longer on the stainless steel parts, the then resulting spots are simply a optical impairment. On the visible window lintels in particular brown stains can be removed with a special passivating agent. The passivating agent must be thoroughly rinsed off with clean water after the appropriate exposure time. The passivating agent will be described in more detail subsequently.


  • Strong ferritic flying spark burns which have deeply penetrated the surface must be removed mechanically or abraded.
  • If the penetration of ferritic particles or scale is fine and superficial a pickling agent can be used to refinish.
  • Rust bloom, extensive light brown stains, such as occur when diluted reducing acids (hydrochloric acid / sulfuric acid)are wrongly used on the surface and cannot be rinsed off immediately or thoroughly. In such cases one should attempt cleaning with an oxidizing acid (nitric acid/phosphoric acid) first.
  • For oils, greases, organic dirt,please use alcohol to clean, for example, ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, or solvents such as acetone. Special biological cleaners are possible!


* not for inherent material defects

  • For limescale, chalky deposits, cement and mortar splashes use cleansing milk products with calcium carbonate additives. For larger impurities a 10-15% phosphoric acid solution is recommended. A diluted vinegar solution in the ratio 1:3 with tap water can be used. Do not use scouring powder!
  • Graffiti and other paints, please remove with special alkaline or solvent-based cleaners. Do not use hard scrapers or knives!
  • Strongly neglected surfaces, dulled surfaces,require polishing pastes as also used for chrome parts on vehicles to bring the shine back.

Recommended cleaning utensils

  • Damp cloth or leather
  • For stubborn dirt: nylon sponges (but not on bright annealed or polished surfaces)
  • Soft nylon brushes
  • High-pressure cleaner (caution is advised because of sheet thickness which must not bulge due to high water jet pressure and for sharp dirt with respect to the danger of scratches!)
  • Demineralized water to prevent limescale rims during rinsing.

Agents for surface treatments and protective clothing

Agents for surface treatment and protective clothing can be purchased from us. Please also note the instructions displayed on the package!



Following cleaners should not be used:

Chlorine/hydrochloric acid-containing cleaners, hypochlorite bleaches and disinfectants (Javel water) silver polish

Item Item number
Passivating agent RP-GEL 140 414
Cleaning agent plus 3000 140 425
Surface protection OS 540 140 421
Brush mordant TS a 2 kg Item no. 140 422
Acid-resistant plastic mordant brush 140 418
Item Item number
Acid protection gloves 140 513
Acid-proof apron 140 362
Nylon protective goggles , shatterproof 140 363
Stainless steel wire hand brush 140 417
Stainless steel pot brush for power drill 140 061
Roughing disc for hand angle grinder. 180 mm Ø 140 390
Roughing disc for hand angle grinder. 115 mm Ø 140 391
Abrasive mop wheel disc for hand angle grinder. 178 mm Ø 140 392
Abrasive mop wheel disc for hand angle grinder. 115 mm Ø 140 393